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New York Times
11/20/2002

Turkeys Similar to What Pilgrims Ate

Turkey is on the menu for Thanksgiving at restaurants everywhere, even in surprising places like Anju, a Korean restaurant in the Flatiron district, where it is served in the company of kimchi, beef bean sprout soup and pan-fried radish.

But this year, restaurants in New York and elsewhere are trying a new kind of turkey that is actually an old kind, a throwback to the days before turkeys were bred on industrial farms to be top heavy with white meat.

For a year, farms, encouraged by the educational organization Slow Food U.S.A., have been raising breeds of heritage turkeys, including Bourbon Red. This season, there are enough of them for restaurants to serve and for retail stores to sell. Gourmet Garage stores and Ottomanelli & Sons in Manhattan, and Zingerman's in Ann Arbor, Mich., have them.

Roast Bourbon Red turkeys will be on the menu at Thanksgiving dinners at the following restaurants:

  • Grange Hall, 50 Commerce Street (Barrow Street). Five-course dinner is $75.
  • Heartbeat, 149 East 49th Street. Three-course dinner is $39.
  • Jean Georges and Nougatine, 1 Central Park West (60th Street). Four-course dinner at Jean Georges, $95; Nougatine, $65, three courses.
  • Judson Grill, 152 West 52nd Street. Four-course dinner is $68.
  • Savoy, 70 Prince Street (Crosby Street). Four-course dinner is $65.
  • City Bakery, 3 West 18th Street, will have roast heritage turkey on its Thanksgiving takeout menu, $95 to serve six to eight people.

And elsewhere, the turkeys will be served on Thanksgiving at Stage Left in New Brunswick, N.J., and Blackberry Farm in Walland, Tenn.


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